Stories & guides

The Journal

Festival dates, valley guides, books worth packing and dispatches from 15 years of travelling the Kingdom.

Traffic Lights in Bhutan

Thimphu is the only capital city in the world without traffic lights — why Bhutan's capital still relies on white-gloved police to direct traffic, and what it takes to do the job.

Reflection on Water Bowl Offering

My first memory of the water bowl offering dates back to childhood, when I watched my grandmother enter and exit our altar room. Early each morning, at…