Dungkhar Goenpa

Dungkhar Goenpa, in full Dungkhar Ugyen Choeling Goenpa, stands on a ridge at about 2,060 m above Khar village in Khar gewog. Dungkhar means white conch, and the ridge it sits on is said to have the shape of one.

It is said to be about 450 years old. By tradition it was founded by Yab Tenpai Nyima, the father of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. The Padling Choeki Ga Tshal Foundation, which runs it today in the Pema Lingpa tradition, tells it differently: that descendants of Pema Lingpa and Lhase Tsangma established it. The goenpa belongs to its community, and since 12 October 2014 it has also been home to a shedra, a monastic college.

The stones the dakinis brought

Locals tell that when the mason had dug the foundation, he went home for the night and came back to find stones piled up on the site. The khandro, the dakinis, had brought them. It happened every morning, and he built the goenpa with what they left.

The Aa Thoe

Dungkhar keeps a skull relic called the Aa Thoe. It is marked with the letter Aa on the front, the sun and moon at the back and a wish-granting tree on the side. It comes out during the Guru Tshengye dance, and due tsi, blessed liquid, is served from it. People believe it grants wishes.

It is shown twice a year: on the 10th day of the 3rd month here, and on the 15th day of the 8th month at the Khar Community Lhakhang in Khar village. Where it came from is not known.

The tshechu

Dungkhar’s four-day tshechu falls around the 10th day of the 3rd Bhutanese month, which usually lands in April, and the masked dances are performed by the resident monks and the people of Khar together. Tents go up round the lhakhang for the crowds. In 2019 it ended on 15 April with the Gyalpo and Gyalmo dance and a torphang ceremony.

It is not the Dungkar in Lhuentse, the ancestral home of the royal family, in another district. Dungkhar is 22 km and 1 to 1.5 hours from Denchi. See things to do in Pemagatshel for the rest of the district.